1. **ATTENTION ALL DEVILS** If you are still having trouble logging in, (Resetting your password should do "the trick") Optimum Online is blocking JD emails for some reason*, OR if you are not technically capable of doing this; use the "Contact Us" form utilizing your current, valid email address. If your email address is 'lost' to you, simply providing some account details will get us on the correct path together. THERE IS NO NEED TO CREATE SECONDARY ACCOUNTS, STOP BEING SO LAZY! YOU WILL BE BANNED! (Yelling/impolite voice implied there for *maximum effect*)
    Dismiss Notice

"Stupid Questions" and How'd they do that?

Mark Terrell Mar 31, 2008

  1. Norcalflat

    Norcalflat War Dance

    Nice! Is that a customized Buck?

    Good Q, like some Sebenzas for example?
  2. Clydetz

    Clydetz Forever straight and true Brigade Member

    Yes... a customized Buck 500 by Richard Chischilly and Ghostown.
  3. Leatherface

    Leatherface leatherface Knife Maker or Craftsman

    ok I have question

    once you have the tang hammered out

    once you get the basic point hammered out (urgh!)


    they are my bane

    any tips??
  4. stephanfowler

    stephanfowler knifemaker Knife Maker or Craftsman


    I can't help a whole lot without seeing what your doing and pointing out mistakes.

    general concepts:

    Don't try to move cold metal, get it hot. I do all of my forging at a yellow heat or higher, once the shape is there I go down to red heats for several planishing cycles. don't forget to normalize well.

    A clean hammer and clean anvil make cleaner work, don't let scale sit on your anvil it will pit up your knife, if you ding your hammer face - dress it out to at least 400G

    when your arm is tired QUIT, or go to a smaller hammer.

    you need to make sure your anvil is at a good working height for you, to low and you'll destroy your elbow, to high and you'll destroy your shoulder. general rule of thumb is to have the face of the anvil even with your knuckles when standing relaxed. I personally prefer 1" higher for forging and 1" lower for heavy stock movement.

    most of the rest is technique and that is best taught one on one.
  5. Leatherface

    Leatherface leatherface Knife Maker or Craftsman

    ok bro thanks

    i do need to elevate my homemade anvil

    i am using a piece of railroad track sunk in concrete so finding something to put it on could be a pain...works pretty good for tangs though


    between u and mace I think I see what I am doing wrong with the bevels

  6. Leatherface

    Leatherface leatherface Knife Maker or Craftsman

    ok one more really stupid question

    what type of hammer should I be using if I want to stretch the metal??

    err does that make sense??

    I have 1/4" x 1.5" x 12" 1084

    I would like to make it wider and longer

    any help??
  7. 50calmike

    50calmike 50 caliber Devil

    Hammers are important, but the technique is even more so. You should try to find a 2.5-3# cross or straight peen hammer. The peen is used to draw out the metal lengthwise or widthwise then the other is for smashing it flat. For your anvil, you may want to round over one edge to use as a fuller to help with drawing out the metal. I am only a hobby smith but this advice helped me when starting out.

    You may want to check out Centaur Forge or The Blacksmith Depot for tools.
  8. Leatherface

    Leatherface leatherface Knife Maker or Craftsman

    THanks bro

    ok I got the cross pen thingy

    bought it at a junk sale

    didn't know that is what it was for

    ok now I really feel stupid

    but I bought it for a buck


    how would one use it?? anyone got a video ?? :devil1:
  9. 50calmike

    50calmike 50 caliber Devil

    You may want to find an old stump and find a way to strap the bucket to it. The stump will deaden the hammer blows a bit, but it may be better to remove the track and mount directly to the stump. It will still ring but the force will be more intimate with the work. (sounds a little wrong)
    Basically, the heavier, or more massive the anvil and what it is attached to, the more metal you move with each hammer strike.
  10. 50calmike

    50calmike 50 caliber Devil

    Basically, you use the pein perpendicular to the direction you want the metal to move. Looks like a cross when viewed from above as you bring the hammer down onto the work.
  11. BGadvocate

    BGadvocate Better than gold or platinum

    BTW- Love the Fixed Blades...we need to hook up!

  12. harm

    harm knifemaker Knife Maker or Craftsman


    Ferric Chloride will blacken stainless.i use it to etch my logo onto my blades as well as etch the "urban camo" pattern i do on my blades.
  13. Mr.LaBella

    Mr.LaBella ←The № 1 Devil→ Administrator

    Read through this whole thread and report back with your questions AND answers, Devils! :devilzeek
  14. RoadFish

    RoadFish Cathar Knight

    When I was a kid, I saw my dad do some jeweling (engine turning) using a wooden dowel chucked up in his Shop Smith drill press and abrasive powder. It was pretty neat.
  15. Curtis Wilson

    Curtis Wilson knifemaker Knife Maker or Craftsman

    "Stupid Questions" and How'd they do that?

    Hopefully this will answer several questions:
    1. Stainless steel heat treat: Leave approxamately 0.030" at the edge, wrap in paper towel ( three to five wraps) prior to heat treat foil (this will cut down on decarb).
    You should not have any wrapage when done in this manner.

    2. Sub-zero quench: Using a small plascic cooler I use Dry Ice and 93% alcohol (rubbing). Actually I place it in my standup freezer (just to make it last longer). Put the alochol into the cooler then place the dry ice into that. after about 20 to 30 minutes the alochol will turn into a frozen slush place the heat treated and tempered blades into the ice mix let stand for six(6) hours then remove.
    The arstinite (sp) that will turn into marstinite (SP) will have turned during the six(6) hours. After the sub-zero quench I temper the blades for two more cycles of two hours each.

    3. Engraving of Ti bolsters is done in the following manner:
    first you anodize the base color then you cut the engraving and then re anodize the second color (NOTE: the second color must be at a lower voltage than the origional base color voltage. I am in the process of doing just that and will show some of the pictures in the next few days.

    4.Scrimshaw is basically a pen and ink drawing done on Ivory,ImititionIvory, Micarta, Bone, Pearl, or Antler Material. It can be done with a needle #eleven Exacto knife blade with the tip broken off and resharpened. the design is drawn onto the material and then cut into it just slightly. then the area is inked,or colored ( inks work ok for some but colored oil paints work better espcially for doing color work). When doing color work on white or light surfaces always start with the darker colors going to the lighter colors ( Black, dark green, purple, dark blue, dark brown, light green, light purple, light blue, light brown, red, orange, yellow). If you are using inks once it is dry remove of the excess by taking a match stick and cutting a 45 degree angle with a razor blade, then use it to remove off the excess. when using paints either use a q-tip or a fine paintbrush to apply the color then use a q-tip, cotton ball, or facial pad to remove excess paint.
    If you would like to contact me for more info on this feel free.
    I hope that ihis is of some help to some of you.

    Curtis Wilson
    Wilson's Custom Knives, Engraving and Scrimshaw
  16. willhunt

    willhunt much appreciated

    Thinking of putting thumb grooves on my next knife.

    Any helpful hints?
  17. L R Harner

    L R Harner They call me "Butch" Knife Maker or Craftsman

    grobrec checkering files no i cant spell
    but i got the one thats as wide a spacign as they make and have on hand at midwayusa.com
    works great on softened steel
    so even tho there the hardest files i know of for this work cut the grooves pre HT or after a hevk of a temperign draw on the non edge of the blade
  18. willhunt

    willhunt much appreciated

    Thankyou, sir.

    Checkering file from Midway.
  19. Mike Stewart

    Mike Stewart Knife Moderator/Bark River Knife & Tool

    We have a set of Diamond Files that work on Soft or Hard steel.

    I think I got mine from Soupy.

    He was doing custom filework back then.

  20. willhunt

    willhunt much appreciated

    Calling Soupy.........................................


Share This Page