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Show your Paper Wheel edges

kwackster May 8, 2017

  1. kwackster

    kwackster Huge member

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    Some here know i like my Paper Wheels for sharpening knives, but it can't be that i'm the only one on this forum.
    From time to time i will post my results here and i hope that others will do the same,

    Here's one i did a few days ago, a Spyderco Paramilitary 2 in Elmax steel.
    The factory edge had some light brown discoloration near the tip on one side, traces of some unknown black stuff that couldn't even be removed with acetone (visible in the pics, and could also barely cut copypaper.

    This is how it looked before sharpening:
    (pics can be clicked 2 x)

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    First i removed the apex of the old edge by cutting a few times in a silicon carbide stone, then resharpened it with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, followed by removing the tiny burr with a second Paper Wheel coated with 1 micron diamond compound.
    This time i also polished the bevels a bit more with the same Wheel, just to see how the Elmax would do.
    According to my Tormek angle gauge the new edge measures 30 degrees inclusive, can slice single ply toilet paper and easily whittle the hairs on the back of my hand from heel to tip.

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  2. kwackster

    kwackster Huge member

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    A while ago i reprofiled & sharpened this Ontario Afghan Bush in (probably) 5160 steel for a Dutch forum member, who when he received it tested it quite rigorously to see how the the knife would hold up with it's new edge.
    The pictures show the knife with it's new edge measuring 35 degrees inclusive, a 15 micron diamond compound Paper Wheel finish, and a treetopping sharpness.

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    This was the mail i got from him when he was done testing:
    (translated from Dutch)

    Hereby i send you the results of the batonning test: my arm hurts and the knife just laughs at me.

    I started with batonning through some standard firewood, which didn't cause any problems.
    Then i proceeded to baton right through a hardwood pole with a big burl (?) in it (with a lot of effort from my side)
    I then replaced the baton with a hard rubber hammer for a bit more comfort and hitting power, and with this i managed to drive the edge about half an inch crossgrain into another piece of tropical hardwood.
    After this i cleaned the knife, and the edge would still pushcut through paper.

    I almost forgot to mention that i also put the knife sideways with the point on a wooden block and gave it about 20 hard whacks with the rubber hammer on both sides of the knife.
    Then i tested the point strength by stabbing it into hardwood and breaking it free sideways.
    I think the knife already has endured more than it will ever have to in real life.

    After all this i could still shave the hair on my leg on skin level, and after a bit of stropping it could treetop again.



    When the customer is happy then i'm happy, :)
     
    stdlrf11 likes this.
  3. kwackster

    kwackster Huge member

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    Some time ago i did this rather large Strider fixed blade for a Dutch forum member.
    According to my Tormek angle gauge the factory edge measured 50 to 55 degrees inclusive and it wasn't very sharp either.

    Grit progression: reprofiled on a standard Paper Wheel with 220 grit SiC, refined it a little with a second Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and finally removed the tiny burr with a third Paper Wheel coated with 0,25 micron diamond compound.
    The new & slightly convex edge measures around 35/36 degrees inclusive, and can both slice single layer toilet paper and treetop the hairs on the back of my hand.

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  4. kwackster

    kwackster Huge member

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    A while ago i sharpened this Buck Hartsook in S30V steel for a Dutch forum member:

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    The edge was done on Paper Wheels with diamond compounds exclusively, and the new & slightly convex edge measures +/- 30 degrees inclusive.
    Remarkably useful little knives with well hardened S30V steel.
     
  5. kwackster

    kwackster Huge member

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    This brand new Endura ZDP-189 sadly had a less than optimal factory edge, and since this beautiful steel deserves better i reprofiled & sharpened it myself.

    Before sharpening.
    My guess is that these knives are belt sharpened and then have the burr stropped of on a buffer.
    On this knife however it seemed like the buffer ran out of cutting compound (or the sharpener just did a sloppy job), as through my loupe i could see remains of a burr almost along the entire edge. (some of it is partly visible in picture 2)
    Due to this the sharpness was of course severely lacking.
    I also measured the edge angle to be 35 degrees inclusive, which i think is a bit too large for a folding knife in ZDP-189 steel.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    After sharpening.
    First i removed the old apex by cutting a few times straight into a silicon carbide stone, then reprofiled the edge to a slightly convex +/- 25 degrees inclusive angle with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and finally removed the tiny burr with a second Paper Wheel coated with 0.25 micron diamond compound.
    This leaves the scratch pattern created by the 15 micron diamond particles intact as much as possible, creating an edge that with the naked eye almost looks like a mirror, but which has the bite of a coarser edge.
    I call this a "bling & bite" finish, and i have found it to work very well in EDC use on harder high carbide steel types.
    It's also quite difficult to show correctly in pictures, as the lens of my cheap camera has a tendency to show more of the scratch pattern than can be seen in reality with the naked eye.

    With the reduced edge angle & the much finer edge finish the knife will not only cut in a completely different league, it can now also be kept sharp on the 30 degrees slots of a Spyderco Sharpmaker or Lansky Turnbox.

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    Specs:

    Length open: 22,2 cm
    Length closed: 12,7 cm
    Blade length: 9,6 cm
    Blade thickness: max 3,0 mm (ricasso)
    Edge length: 8,8 cm
    Steel: ZDP-189 powder steel
    Hardness: 64-65 HRC
    Weight: 103 gram
    Handle material: British Racing Green FRN on steel liners
     
    stdlrf11 likes this.
  6. kwackster

    kwackster Huge member

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    A few weeks ago a knife collector asked me if i could sharpen the false edge on a Gerber Applegate Fairbairn folder.
    On this knife the blade is completely shrouded by the handle when closed, so there is no risk of injury while carrying it.
    The owner also wanted the new bevels to be a bit shiny.

    This older YouTube clip by Nutnfancy showcases this mod:



    This was the knife before sharpening:

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  7. kwackster

    kwackster Huge member

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    And the result.
    Ground the new bevels with a Rubber Wheel coated with 230 grit diamond powder, then refined all bevels with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and finally removed the tiny burr remnants with the Tormek leather wheel & some 1 micron diamond compound.
    The edges measure 35 degrees inclusive and are treetopping sharp.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

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  8. kwackster

    kwackster Huge member

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    The factory edge of this Spyderco PM2 in S110V steel was barely shaving armhair on skinlevel, and according to my Tormek WM200 the edge angle was near 35 degrees inclusive.
    The old apex was removed by cutting several times straight into a silicon carbide stone, and then i used 4 different Paper Wheels coated with diamond compounds (15, 6, 3, and 1 micron) to create & refine the new edge.
    Normally i don't take high carbide steel types this far, but in this case i wanted to see how the S110V steel would do.

    The new & ever so slightly convex edge measures a hair below 30 degrees inclusive, and can easily whittle a normal chest hair towards the point along the entire edge.
    Thinner ones will sever immediately upon touching.
    My cheap camera is not really able to show full details, but at least it gives some impression.

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  9. kwackster

    kwackster Huge member

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    A Belgian member of the Dutch forum who's also into sharpening sent me a USB-camera as a gift, and although i still have lots to learn about what it can do i managed to take a couple of pics of the current edge on the PM2 in S110V steel:

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  10. kwackster

    kwackster Huge member

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    The Manix 2 lightweight in S110V is a superb knife, and it exemplifies Spyderco's motto "simplify and add lightness".
    The model only seems to have two possible disadvantages: it takes up quite a bit of real estate in your pocket, and some people can't seem to get over the fact that it has an ultra lightweight plastic handle, which to them makes the knife feel cheap and not worth the asking price.
    But after providing them with some links to real life tests with this knife some of them change their minds :-)

    I do hope however that the factory edges get some more attention in the future, as i already had to resharpen 5 pcs of this model that couldn't even slice copy paper.
    Upon inspection all these edges had visible burr remains and edge angles measured around 35 degrees inclusive.

    This is one of them with it's new bling & bite edge, as i call them: reprofiled to +/- 30 degrees inclusive with 230 grit diamond powder on a Rubber Wheel, refined with 15 micron diamond compound on a Paper Wheel, and deburred with 0,25 micron diamond compound on a second Paper Wheel.
    To me the shiny bevels are actually a side effect, as it's the clean cutting of the large amount of vanadium carbides that i'm after.

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  11. kwackster

    kwackster Huge member

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    This second hand Spyderco Military in CPM-D2 steel was one of the first knives i ever sharpened on my standard set of Paper Wheels back in 2009.
    It had some blade play (fixed it), some discoloration on the blade (left that) and it wasn't quite sharp (fixed that with the Wheels)
    Was part of my edc for several years.

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    Last edited: Dec 16, 2017
  12. kwackster

    kwackster Huge member

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    Did these chisel ground edges a a few years ago with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and then stropped the burr on the other side off on hard leather with some 1 micron diamond compound.
    Both knives were quite blunt, one even more than the other.
    The knives are owned by two Dutch Special Forces guys who used & sharpened them while on tour in Afghanistan, and they wanted the new edges to have a little bling.

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  13. kwackster

    kwackster Huge member

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    Below you see 3 different viewing angles of the same 15 micron edge i recently put on a brand new Sebenza 25 (which had a subpar factory edge)
    The owner of the knife took the pictures with a very expensive Leica camera to capture the different looks this edge type can have.
    For obvious reasons i named this a bling & bite finish, and it performs very well on especially high vanadium carbide steels.

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  14. kwackster

    kwackster Huge member

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    This just came in, and it should be more than enough to coat both a Paper Wheel as well as a Rubber Wheel using the 3-step process.
    According to my digital scale it weighs +/- 40 grams.

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  15. kwackster

    kwackster Huge member

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    I own several vintage Gerbers in M2 steel, both outdoor & kitchen models, and this Durendal slicer model from the '60's does duty in our kitchen.
    Opening all kinds of paper & plastic food packages, slicing bags with espresso beans, cutting up larger fruits like melons & pineapples, slicing bread loafs and hamburger buns without crumbling, cutting sausages, etc.
    Not every day, but at least several times a week.

    I bought this Gerber about 2 years ago on E-Bay completely blunt, so i reprofiled & sharpened it with a SiC grit Paper Wheel, then refined the edge with 15 micron diamond compound on a second Paper Wheel, and then again with 6 micron diamond compound on a third Paper Wheel.
    The tiny burr was removed with a fourth Paper Wheel coated with 0,25 micron diamond compound.
    The idea was to get something of a semi-polish that would protect the exposed M2 edge better against corrosion issues during kitchen use, while still having some degree of bite.

    The knife was then used for about 2 years in our kitchen, and when not in use stored on a magnet strip on our kitchen wall.
    After those 2 years the edge only had a few very minor dings/flat spots in it (in the tiny belly area), but it could still shave the hair on the back of my hand on skin level quite well with about 90-95 % of the edge.
    When cutting tomatoes however the edge tended to slide a bit over the skin before it started to cut.
    The main reason for this kind of edgeholding is of course the fact that most of the edge on a slicer like this never touches a cutting board, only the belly area does, but the M2 steel performed quite admirably in my book.

    A few weeks ago i resharpened the edge, this time only with 15 micron diamond compound, then deburred with 0,25 micron diamond compound, as i want to try the knife with some more bite.
    Will have to find out if there will be corrosion issues or not.
    So far i've only used it on food packaging (both paper & plastic, no fruit or other things yet), but here are a few pics how the knife & edge look now.
    The edge feels sticky and is still treetopping sharp.

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    Specs:

    Blade steel: hard chromed M2 steel
    Hardness: 60-62 HRC
    Handle material: cast on aluminum, chromed.
    Overall length: 29,5 cm
    Blade length: 16,5 cm
    Blade thickness: 1,36 mm in front of the handle tapering to 0,84 mm close to the point
    Thickness behind the edge: 0,5 mm
    Edge angle: +/- 30 degrees inclusive, slightly convex
     
  16. kwackster

    kwackster Huge member

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    Currently busy with the same mod of a (user) Gerber Applegate-Fairbairn folder like i did earlier.
    This is how the knife looked when i received it from the owner, still with a single edge & an edge angle between 40 and 45 degrees inclusive:

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    And this is how the knife looks after grinding the new edge on the back of the blade & trying to match it with the reprofiled edge on the other side.
    The scratch pattern complete with burr remains still present on the apex comes from a Rubber Wheel coated with +/- 170 grit diamond powder & wax (as i haven't made a Paper Wheel with the same diamond powder yet) which i used for this job.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    The idea was to make the 2 edges / 4 bevels as visually similar in width & curvature as i could, with a specific edge angle of +/- 35 degrees inclusive, without damaging the names on the blade, and to create a new point that would be centered as much as possible.
    Trying to achieve all these things at the same time freehand, together with many checks with a loupe in between passes isn't easy for me, so i took my time.
    Tomorrow i plan to continue with 15 micron diamond compound on a Paper Wheel for one of those bling & bite finishes, after which i'm going to take a few more pics.
     
  17. kwackster

    kwackster Huge member

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    And the result, after a Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound & deburring with a second Paper Wheel with 0.25 diamond compound.
    Both edges are treetopping sharp.

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  18. kwackster

    kwackster Huge member

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    The knife is still pocketable, but the top edge is only about 2-3 millimeters inside the grip, so when deliberately trying i can just feel the apex with my index finger.
    Now the thumb lugs stop on the grooved linerlock tab, so it would be easy to use a file or a Dremel on it's surface to lower the blade a tiny bit deeper inside the handle, as there is some room for it.

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  19. kwackster

    kwackster Huge member

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    Did this user Spyderco PM2 in S30V steel for a customer who had seen pictures online of another PM2 in S110V steel i did earlier, and which are also somewhere in this thread.
    The man wanted the exact same full mirror edge he had seen on the other knife, it had to be 30 degrees inclusive, and it also had to have a guaranteed hair whittling sharpness.
    Of course i told him that this S30V is not the best steel for a full mirror edge, but it was what he wanted, :)

    The old edge had a few flat spots and a bit of a rounded point from use, but nothing serious.
    Total time i spent on this knife was one hour, in a succession of Paper Wheels with 15, 6, 3, and 1 micron diamond compound.
    As a comparison: the same full mirror edge on that PM2 in S110V steel the man saw online took me two hours.
    Most of this time is going into the many visual checks i do in between with my Victorinox loupe under bright light, not into the actual sharpening.

    These are the quick pics i also sent to the customer, and they can be clicked twice for a bit more detail.
    The owner was satisfied btw.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

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  20. kwackster

    kwackster Huge member

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    Hinderer XM-18 Slicer grind in S35VN steel.
    According to my Tormek angle gauge the factory edge angle measured between 45 and 50 degrees inclusive, while the thickness of the steel just behind that edge went from 0.7 mm at the heel to 0.6 mm at the tip.
    The knife is going to be used as a hunting folder, and the owner had 2 wishes: if possible no visually wide bevels, plus he wanted to be able to maintain the new edge on a Spyderco Sharpmaker.

    Before sharpening:

    [​IMG][​IMG]

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    After sharpening.

    Edge reprofiled to an almost exact 35 degrees inclusive with a Paper Wheel coated with 220 grit SiC, after which the burr was removed with a second Paper Wheel coated with 0.25 micron diamond compound.
    The new edge is what i would call sticky sharp.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

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