Boiled-Mustard Finish

**J. Neilson** · 07-14-2009, 09:41 AM

Someone was just asking how to do this so here's how I add this finish to my blades...

Finish your blade to a random 400-600 grit finish. Then mix cold-blue gun paste (looks like a tooth paste tube) and plain yellow mustard at a 50-50 ratio. The coat the blade with this mix unevenly (leaving some high and low spots). The uneven mix will give you some contrast depending on how long you let the mix sit on the blade and how long you boil it. I let the blade sit over night and then heat Clorox bleach to between 150-200 degrees (please do this in a very well ventilated area with a respirator) and dip the blade into the heated bleach for 3 minutes. After 3 minutes pull the blade out and rub the whole piece down with heavy steel wool, you will see the blade rusting before your eyes. Once you've rubbed the blade down dip it in the bleach again for 2 minutes and repeat the steel wool rub. I normally do this 3-4 times. The more you do it, the darker your blade will be. After you get the blade to where you want it, be sure to boil the blade in baking soda and water for about 15 minutes to completely neutralize it. Now you've got a non-reflective blade that will resist corrosion and scratches.
J.

**RoadFish** · 07-14-2009, 11:56 AM

Well not completely worthless, but pics would be nice!

**J. Neilson** · 07-14-2009, 01:07 PM

Here are a few examples...

**RoadFish** · 07-14-2009, 01:33 PM

Very nice. Do you do this before or after fitting the handle material?

**J. Neilson** · 07-14-2009, 05:34 PM

Definitely before.

**El Gringo** · 07-14-2009, 05:59 PM

I do like the results.

**moon** · 07-15-2009, 10:38 AM

Most impressive,as usual J. See you in Cambridge in Oct. Moon

**RoadFish** · 07-15-2009, 11:51 AM

I love this finish and will be using it when I get back to making. Two more questions. What steel are the knives and does the time in the boiling baths change the blade temper? Thanks.

**J. Neilson** · 07-15-2009, 12:05 PM

Originally Posted by RoadFish

I love this finish and will be using it when I get back to making. Two more questions. What steel are the knives and does the time in the boiling baths change the blade temper? Thanks.

I get pretty steady results no matter what steel I use. I've done this method with 1080/1084/1095/5160 & 52100, even did it on a small damascus blade for a goof. The time in the bath and the temperature of the bleach isn't enough to alter the temper. No sweat.

**jawilliams0425** · 07-16-2009, 10:55 AM

Can't wait to get my shop up and running again. I have got to try this. Thanks J

**Centerfinger** · 07-16-2009, 11:18 AM

Mr. Neilson, after you get your desired finish, how do you keep from sanding and removing the finish at the back of the tang when finishing your handles. This is an area when I have some big issues.

I'm finishing up a knife for a customer and I got the acid finish just where I want it, but I know that I'm going to remove it when I get shaping out the handles. I have tried to assemble handles and get them shaped and fine tuned prior to glue up, but then have run into cracking when glue up time comes which amounted to a huge waste of time.

**J. Neilson** · 07-16-2009, 01:16 PM

Originally Posted by Centerfinger

Mr. Neilson, after you get your desired finish, how do you keep from sanding and removing the finish at the back of the tang when finishing your handles. This is an area when I have some big issues.

I'm finishing up a knife for a customer and I got the acid finish just where I want it, but I know that I'm going to remove it when I get shaping out the handles. I have tried to assemble handles and get them shaped and fine tuned prior to glue up, but then have run into cracking when glue up time comes which amounted to a huge waste of time.

I'm not sure what the cracking issue is, can you elaborate on that? I pre-shape my handles on a full tang knife before putting this finish on the blade. I tend to use handle bolts as opposed to pins (I like the extra security and I'm a believer that epoxy should only seal a knife up, no hold it together). This make shaping and re-assembly easier. After I shape things up, I run the corners of the tang and handle material (where they will meet) one quick pass over an 800 grit belt. This gives the match up point of your handle material and tang a slight chamfer. Just remember to clean this area repeatedly with WD-40 to wipe out any epoxy seepage.

**Centerfinger** · 07-16-2009, 01:46 PM

That how I though the process should go and I have done that before. Maybe the cracking was a fluke, but it sure pissed me off. I usually use 1/4" solid pins and they are super snug when I drill 1/4 holes in the slabs and requires some hammer finesse when putting it all together. So I was banging the pins through and cracked the shaped ironwood slabs.

I guess I will get me some bolts and give it another try, shaping first that is. Shaped handles and bolts would help with my epoxy seepage too.

Thanks, I appreciate it.

**tmik** · 07-16-2009, 04:17 PM

nice looking finish.
Jay, also I have to say your knives are getting a more clean, classic look to them all the time. The balance and lines are really coming together for you. Really nice, top of the line stuff coming out of you shop now days.

**J. Neilson** · 07-16-2009, 05:39 PM

Originally Posted by tmickley

nice looking finish.
Jay, also I have to say your knives are getting a more clean, classic look to them all the time. The balance and lines are really coming together for you. Really nice, top of the line stuff coming out of you shop now days.

Thanks Tim. I got thrown for a loop awhile back but, things are moving forward. I'm getting to the point were I can again start doing more of what I want to do along with what I have to do in the shop.