STEBBINS knife construction methods

[DomBunn]

Anyone interested in pictures of my method in constructing one of my damascus hunting knife models done in a stag and wood handle?

I have a bunch of these to make for customers since I put a picture of the first one built on my Home Page a month ago.

I started photographing them for a tutorial for the lack of a better word. Thought I would post them on the JD forum if anyone had and interest in the process. Please let me know if there is any interest or not...

Please let me know Dominic


Any questions are welcome

Material gathered for this build “what the customer wants” I used 1O84 & 15N20 a 200 layer 1.5” ladder pattern billet 2” wide 1084 bar stock by AL MAY Samba stag Ironwood burl NS Pins and (spacer Turquoise I am not so sure about) but he asked for it


Preparing the paper pattern layout with the steel for gas welding. A bevel to zero and fill the V grind on each side of the blade. This enables me to profile the blade I designed with a full tang having a more aggressive curved profile then a 1 ½ inch or less damascus billet would allow on this and many of my designs.

The reason for adding the wider blade steel on the tang behind the bolsters or guard if one is used. And it will not fail if you where wondering!!! A little more work but is cost affective in the end.

When anneald normalized and done correctly there is only a slight color difference on transition from damascus to blade steel. This way I can make two knives from one piece of awesome damascus billet instead of one and using 5" under a handle is a waste.

Alot of work goes into damascus before the knife is even started to be made. I buy most of mine because I like to make knives not the Damascus as much. Sometime I get in the mood or its nessessary but there are some great full time damascus makers out there. I do a some twist, random and snake eye patterns. A one man shop over here.


The pattern is attached with 3M spray adhesive it works well even when plunged in water for cooling. I sometimes dykem and mark the profile also in case I lose the paper pattern. Backup alway helps. Who said "there is more that can go wrong then go right when making a knife?" That guy was sure right on the money.


After its Wire Gas welded I surface grind the welded billet and it will completely blend in after it is aneald. Show after etching
Pictured below a ruff flat removal with a angle grinder to remove the bulk. Then cut on a Bi metal band saw with plenty of clearance away from the paper pattern. Then I grind the finish to the pattern on the belt grinder.






After hollow grinding on a 10 inch wheel for this blade to about 75 to 80 % of the bevels and getting my grind lines and plungs, also drilled and milled plus any file work that may be in the design. I heat treat in shop by kiln for better control with a fast oil quench. This works best for me IMO. The blade below was tested to mid 60's RC. I test the tang on all my knives with a Ames hardness tester.





Finish grind is 800 grit this is a picture after the acid etch. Sweeeeeeet one I love the layer count 240 on this damascus and how this pattern ladder cuts like a razor a micro serrated edge from the layers in the steel and it etches nice. Close up of the damascus ladder pattern is truly one of my favorites pattern welds for looks and cutting.




Getting the handle materials beveled fitted and the black liner material set and then epoxy and pinned. After 12 hrs. in a heat cooler, boy that’s a oxymoron. I have a 150 watt light bulb in a Igloo cooler for curing epoxy. It helps to really secure the glue.


Then the handle is shaped and contoured to fit the hand comfortably. This is what I think is what is important to a customer when he has an opportunity and time to wait for an ordered knife He also makes the selections of materials being used. I must be comfortable with the choices for the most part.

I started grinding the blade edge sharpening but then remembered that the Samba stag still needs a final polishing. Its never a good idea or in your favor to high speed buff on very sharp knives. Very dangerous is my opinion.






Thanks for looking and I hope you liked it... Db

[FOG]

Thanks for posting this !!!
I,ll be checking back in to see the rest of it as well.

[M.Olexey]

Great thread!

I'm staying tuned buddy.




mo

[shakie]

Man with the plan.

[dfarmerknives]

great stuff. Love the damascus.

[NEWT]

awsome!!!! love the welding job. that is very inovative.:semper:

[DomBunn]

My dirty little secret is out I hope it helps you guys. It enable me to make the knife I want not what the billet will let you make.

You guys know what it take to make or buy a 2"X10 or 12" billet for one knife. This way I can make a nice size damascus hunting knife in most customers price range. Anything that helps.

I hope you grinders if you have not tried it yet might use it. That is why I posted it.

There has to be hundreds of these "how to make a knife," I wanted to offer something new or useful if I could.

It is kind of wasteful putting that nice steel under a piece of wood or mircata. Am I wrong? Thanks guys Db

[Blastmaster1972]

Work in progress and how to pictures are always nice.

Keep 'em coming!

Kind regards,

Jos

[Joe Whalen]

That's a great way to stretch damascus. Thanks for the tip!

The knife turned out great, nice job.

[DomBunn]

Thx Joe glad I posted it Db

[Mr.LaBella]

This is a great thread Dom!

[Semper708]

Thanks for the info, and pictures on how to....

[Pmlknives]

nice WIP picks! Looks good, really good. I have to say the ladder pattern is my favorite also.
Paul

[sarkdide]

It's been awhile since posting on the forums, but i have to say, that turquoise really sets that knife off

... and who needs damascus in the handle spine when you've got filework like that?

your simple approach and innovative assembly prep are definately worth mention as a new sticky for all those starting out with full (and heck, this'll work with hidden/rat tang too) tang damasc.

very nice indeed

[Billy Stewart]

Great thread buddy do more of these i love em!!