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Thread: Basic Sheath tutorial

  1. #16
    Thanks for the comments guys.

    To answer a few questions.

    I would guess that I have right around 3 hours of hands on work in that sheath. It takes longer to make due to drying time from the wet molding and cement.

    As to the spacers, I have pretty much moved on from the belt attachment shown in this tutorial. I make almost all Randall style sheaths with some sort of X back now, which allows for many more carry options.



    I no longer cement any of the attachments to the sheath prior to drilling. I drill the holes first and then fit the attachments. I am a bit anal about making my stitching look good on the front and back.
    Check out my website to see pictures of my work and to see the list of Busse, Swamprat and Scrap Yard knives I have on hand. http://www.chuddybearleather.com

  2. #17
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    Cool post CB !!

  3. #18
    Beelzebub's Leathersmith leatherman's Avatar
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    Good responses here! It is really amazing how much work is in one simple looking sheath.

    Reguarding the X loop, its one of my favorite carry methods. One guy found out that if his belt was thin enough he could put it through at an angle and have canted carry too!
    www.armoralleather.com

    LeatherBuzzard, waiting for it to die

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  4. #19
    Devils Supermoderator Manganr's Avatar
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    Superb tutorial Chuddy.

    I will be sure to follow it step by step when I get to that stage........

    I just gotta finish making the knife first.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clydetz View Post
    The only things my mother taught me were never to accept candy from strangers, if your belly hurts your belt is too tight, and your arms are too short to box with God!

  5. #20
    a gentleman leather craftsmen
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    Interesting!

  6. #21
    I really like that x back,that is outstanding.

  7. #22
    I <3 JerzeeDevil! jimmyjo's Avatar
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    Thanks for the thread, I am one of those people you have helped. I have made knife and gun leather goods but they come out like they need to stay concealed. You have sharpened my skills just form that post. Thanks, jimmyjo


    What kind of thread do you use? I ended up with a coated thread like dental floss and don't like it much.

  8. #23
    JimmyJo,

    I use waxed nylon threads. You get used to the wax and it does make pulling them easier. It also seems to help keep the thread from getting tangled onto itself.
    Check out my website to see pictures of my work and to see the list of Busse, Swamprat and Scrap Yard knives I have on hand. http://www.chuddybearleather.com

  9. #24
    Beelzebub's Leathersmith leatherman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuddy Bear View Post
    JimmyJo,

    I use waxed nylon threads. You get used to the wax and it does make pulling them easier. It also seems to help keep the thread from getting tangled onto itself.
    Agreed 100% For most of my uses I get the Tejas thread from Tandy. Its thick, strong as heck, and works very well. And the spool makes a cool hamster home.
    www.armoralleather.com

    LeatherBuzzard, waiting for it to die

    The Songs of the Dead are the Lamentations of the Living.

  10. #25
    Archer-Leatherworker mtnfolk mike's Avatar
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    GREAT TUTORIAL... THANKS FOR POSTING... that sheath came out bad ass...

  11. #26
    I <3 JerzeeDevil! jimmyjo's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tips

  12. #27
    I like using Marlow's #4 whipping twine. Comes in some great colors too. There's some other sail repair thread I use - it's heavily waxed - though it isn't as strong as the Marlow.

  13. #28
    Huge member General Specific's Avatar
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    CB, how do you get the X back to line up with your stitch line if you put it on after drilling the sheath? I know my mind is just not grasping something obvious, but what Thanks for the tutorial. I will definitely be better off on the next sheath attempt.

    Regards,

    Dave
    "Politics is supposed to be the second-oldest profession. I have come to realize that it bears a very close resemblance to the first." - Ronald Reagan

  14. #29
    Once the sheath is drilled. I take the already cut out x, which I left just a tad wide at the end of the x's, and I lay it on the back of the sheath so that the top side of the x's are aligned with the first hole where I want the stitching to start on them. I then just hold the x in place and flip it over so that the x is on the table under the sheath. I then take a harness needle and put it through the holes over where the x is and tap it lightly so that it makes an impression in the back side of the x. Once I have marked all of the holes on the x, I make the holes go all of the way through the x with my awl, then I flip it over and make the groove run through the holes.

    I hope that makes sense. If it makes no sense to you, send me a pm and I will give you my cell number.

    Chuck.
    Check out my website to see pictures of my work and to see the list of Busse, Swamprat and Scrap Yard knives I have on hand. http://www.chuddybearleather.com

  15. #30
    wow, great tutorial and very nice work its the best one I have seen. I will have to make a few sheaths for blades I have coming in and will refer to this frequently.

    Do you have any tips on doing a piggy back style sheath?
    Last edited by Centerfinger; 05-08-2008 at 02:27 PM.

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