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WIP- Complete Step by step--pgs 1-5 Knife and scales-- pg 7 sheathwork.. lots of pics

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  • #31
    Awesome thread Bro'! Lovin' every minute of it, can't wait for the finished product! Keep up the good work!
    Last edited by cover6; 01-20-2009, 10:35 AM. Reason: misspelled word.
    "It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent, but the one most responsive to change."

    Charles Darwin

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    • #32
      Really cool to see a step by step Lookin good!!
      My name is Stefeno...and I am a frogaholic

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      • #33
        I'll be back to see the finished product. It is an education learning how they are made.

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        • #34
          Cool thread MO
          aka..NorCalHog

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          • #35
            Originally posted by NORCAL HUNTER View Post
            Cool thread MO
            Thanks,


            You and cover6 will be more interested in the status post later this week



            mo
            m.o.b.




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            • #36
              Originally posted by M.Olexey View Post
              Thanks,


              You and cover6 will be more interested in the status post later this week



              mo
              Cool
              aka..NorCalHog

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              • #37
                have you tried a vinegar soak to pop some scale before you hit it with the bandsaw?
                Brandon Sawisch bladesmith

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by dragoncutlery View Post
                  have you tried a vinegar soak to pop some scale before you hit it with the bandsaw?
                  Not yet. Does that soften the stuff up some?



                  mo
                  m.o.b.




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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by M.Olexey View Post

                    Really it might not have been so bad if my cheap ass didn't try to milk every last bit of life out of the 60 grit belts I was using.

                    mo


                    you know, you hit on something with that comment

                    one of the best pieces of advice I ever got was to "use belts like they are free"

                    of course, belts are pretty spendy but the time you save by using fresh belts that cut well.............................


                    anyway, looking good Martin. Sorry for the sidetrack


                    When you can't run anymore, you crawl

                    if you can't crawl, you find somebody to carry you.

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by Ken Brock View Post
                      one of the best pieces of advice I ever got was to "use belts like they are free"
                      I think James at Pop's must have planted that....

                      That is 100% true. Generally when I can't figure out how or why I'm screwing something up, I change the belt and it instantly corrects the issue. As much as it sucks to throw a $6 belt or 10 $6 belts on the ground it ends up costing way more to try to scrimp. Belts really suck at 220 and up. I don't know if its just me but I've had times where it seems I only get one pass before the belt is shit.

                      Thanks guys!



                      mo
                      m.o.b.




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                      • #41
                        Setting the swedge.....

                        Alright everything is back from HT and I can get going again....

                        First, I measure the thickness of the blanks......



                        They all come in around .185 so I subract .030 and divide that by 2 to get
                        .077...I set the height guage for that and scribe a line on the edge flip the blank over and scribe the edge again.



                        I end up with two paralell lines that will be my guides for the edge about .030 apart



                        Then I take them to the grinder and grind a 45 on all the edges (where bevels will be). I do this on a junker belt and it saves a good belt from having all the grit stripped by the sharp edge of the blank. I usually take this 45 almost to my scribe line...



                        On straight clips like the FOS has I set the swedge with the map arm. It's not a good setup for the curvy or concave clips but it lets me get a nice straight line on these straight swedges. Here it is set up for grinding them..



                        And in use....you have to keep the blank moving and you still have to be mindfull of where you are contacting the wheel but it is very efficient



                        I hit them with the 60, 120 and 220 grit belts than I remove the MAP arm and clean them up with the scotch brite belt....



                        Couple shots of the results...





                        I'll be back later this weekend to start the main bevels....


                        mo
                        Last edited by M.Olexey; 02-06-2009, 04:31 PM.
                        m.o.b.




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                        • #42
                          MO....Nice, I like the way you grind....looking good! I'll be back to catch the next steps! :semper:

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                          • #43
                            Looks like you've done this before.
                            sigpic

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                            • #44
                              Setting the bevels.....

                              Back at it setting the bevels.....

                              I start with a fresh 60 grit belt and lay into the blank, dipping it often to avoid overheating....





                              I grind right down to my scribe line with the 60 and also try to get the bevel height established where I want it.



                              I don't worry too much about the the plunge lining up or being too nice yet...



                              Then I put on a 120 (JE weight not as flimsy as a j flex but flexible enough to roll over the edge of the wheel) and refine the scratches, even up and radius the plunge..... I didn't take pics of me at the 120 since it looks just like me at the 60 but here's what i have at this point



                              plunge lines are nice and even now...



                              Next I put on a fresh 220 and refine the scratches some more....not putting a lot of pressure or working the belt too much now as I should have everything where I want it when i leave the 120. For me..if I push the 220 and up grits and try to make them work (ie remove metal) I end up screwing something up and getting dips in the bevels. For most of my stuff I dont go any further than 220 before switching to the scotchbrite to clean up a little.

                              Post clean up...




                              next we'll clean up the flats and get ready to fit the scales.


                              Thanks for looking.



                              mo
                              m.o.b.




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                              • #45
                                Awesome work, MO!

                                Great little blades, there!
                                ******************************

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