Q36 OVERKILL: how to dismantle?

[stefano]

Hi ya all jzee bros!

I'm trying to dismantle my Q36 Overkill, I need to bend the framelock a bit to give it more strenght.

After removing all the tiny screws and the pivot, I was able to slip the blade out (and for the first time to see the amazing RTBS Roller Thrust Bearing System, kinda different from a teflon or bronze washer!).

The problem is I can't go further, I mean, I cannot easily take the framelock side away... looks like there's some hidden screw, or maybe the G10 separator is glued to the titanium frame, or again maybe I need to pull harder, but I don't like to put force where I do not understand what's goin' on...

So... after taking all the screws away, and removing the blade, how can I separate the framelock side from the other side (the one with CF inlay in my model).

Thanks for your help!
Stefano.

[zappadragon]

Did you get the screw under the pocket clip? Where is it not coming apart?

[RJ Martin]

Stefano: That is as far as you can go. There are pins inide that will pevent you from disassembling the frames without having the right tools. I can bend the lock bar farther for you if required. Or, you can bend it from the outside using a press to gently push down just in front of the bend relief. You will need a spacer to fill up the gap between the frames under the lock relief. That is how I do it. However, if you mess it up, it's going to cost you a bunch for me to fix. If I do it, it's free, and it will be right..

If you want to send it to me, my address:

RJ Martin
51 Bramblewood St.
Bridgewater, MA 02324

Please enclose return postage

If you want to try it yourself and need more information please email me @ rjmartinknives@comcast.net

[stefano]

Hi RJ!
Thanks for your quick answer and advice, I'm sooo glad I didn't try to force it apart, I knew it was not the right thing to do.

I really appreciate your offer to send the knife back to you, but I'll keep that as a last resort, because if I send it back to US (I live in Italy), I'll have to pay the custom's duties twice! That's too bad (and the Euro's plunging is not helping as well...).

I'll try you "cure", but before trying it, I'll post a couple of pics with some sketches, just to be sure I've completely understood the procedure (tomorrow, now it's half past midnight and the light is not, hmmm, really good to take pictures! :)

To all our readers: I want to point out clearly (but I know that for the most part of you this is completely unnecessary) that the Q36 came to me mint and perfect. It was my fault to push the framelock a little to harder, so now the ball retent is a bit weak, and I'd like to make it as "perfect" as it was when I got it.

Q36 is an amazing knife, on top of the list of my humble collection!

Thanks again RJ, I'll post the pics tomorrow.

[RJ Martin]

Stefano: You need to fill up the space between the frames-A wedge of hardwood would work fine. This wedge should be inserted just behind the hole that marks the end of the spring slot. The bend runs from this hole down the center of the relieved area. I have the best results when i use an arbor press to push down on the spring just in front of the spring relief-perhaps 1/2" or so. when you do this (with the blade removed, of course), the spring will flex to the opposite side and the detent ball will contact the opposite frame. GO EASY! You can always bend it a bit more. Protect the frame with duct tape.

Before you start bending, observe the location of the lock bar as it is now. You want it about 0.050" farther over, for starters.

Put the knife back together and try it. If it is a little tight, paint the tang of the knife with a black sharpie marker. If not tight enough, remove the blade and bend it a little more.

[MiG Angel]

Stefano: You need to fill up the space between the frames-A wedge of hardwood would work fine. This wedge should be inserted just behind the hole that marks the end of the spring slot. The bend runs from this hole down the center of the relieved area. I have the best results when i use an arbor press to push down on the spring just in front of the spring relief-perhaps 1/2" or so. when you do this (with the blade removed, of course), the spring will flex to the opposite side and the detent ball will contact the opposite frame. GO EASY! You can always bend it a bit more. Protect the frame with duct tape.

Before you start bending, observe the location of the lock bar as it is now. You want it about 0.050" farther over, for starters.

Put the knife back together and try it. If it is a little tight, paint the tang of the knife with a black sharpie marker. If not tight enough, remove the blade and bend it a little more.

Thanks RJ, that is going to help me out as well. My Q36 also came perfect but is now in the beginning stages of wearing down the lock at where it was set.