View Full Version : stoopid kydex questions
Centerfinger
10-06-2008, 03:15 PM
I'm getting a couple blades either today or tomorrow and only have enough kydex left to sheath them without error.
I have used a dremel with a sanding bit to round out the edges and it works, but is not as nice as some makers kydex. What is the best way to round out and smooth the edges?
I have also noticed on some sheaths a bit of a flare out were the handle area is. How is that accomplished? Do you just heat up the area and manually flare it out, or wrap some material around the handle while bending?
Thanks
leatherman
10-06-2008, 06:11 PM
Through talking with some of the kydex guru's, most said that they do the initial sanding with a belt sander and then hand sand with a high grit sand paper. Some will then take a rag soaked with acetone and further polish the edge. Acetone is nasty stuff so wear gloves.
Disclaimer: This advice is given by a kydex retard so take it with a grain of salt. :bwah:
M.Olexey
10-07-2008, 08:41 AM
I'm no kydex guru but after forming and cutting off the excess, I shape it on a 120 grit belt then a 220 and finally a grey scotchbrite (takes the sharp corners off). Then I flare the opening/mouth with a heat gun and my thumb. After that I radius the inside edges of the opening with a dremel then I sand all that down with 600-800 grit sandpaper to even everything out. Finally rub the edges real good with acetone followed by a light wipe of WD40 (the acetone makes it go a little grey and this brings back a shiny bright edge).
mo
leatherman
10-07-2008, 11:25 AM
Cool! Looks like I had the basics down! :devilzide
leatherman, who is not as retarded as he once thought! :ropeman:
Centerfinger
10-07-2008, 11:32 AM
I'm no kydex guru but after forming and cutting off the excess, I shape it on a 120 grit belt then a 220 and finally a grey scotchbrite (takes the sharp corners off). Then I flare the opening/mouth with a heat gun and my thumb. After that I radius the inside edges of the opening with a dremel then I sand all that down with 600-800 grit sandpaper to even everything out. Finally rub the edges real good with acetone followed by a light wipe of WD40 (the acetone makes it go a little grey and this brings back a shiny bright edge).
mo
Thanks man, I did get my my blades yesterday and got one small sheath formed, so I will pick up a few more things and follow your extra steps to turn out something great (hopefully). I will post up pics when the set up is all done.
M.Olexey
10-07-2008, 02:06 PM
Thanks man, I did get my my blades yesterday and got one small sheath formed, so I will pick up a few more things and follow your extra steps to turn out something great (hopefully). I will post up pics when the set up is all done.
No problem.
I left out that I also use blue painters tape on the blade when forming. I put three layers on one side and four on the other (no magic number it just works for me) and trim to the blade shape. This gives just enough breathing room where the sheath isn't rubbing the knife as much minimizing scratches. Make sure the tape is smooth as wrinkles will show/form into the sheath. I also do not rivet it closed until I have it all shaped and finished so I can wash all the trash out before I start doing the final fitting (on the taco style one piece sheaths).
mo
Alain Desaulniers
10-10-2008, 12:50 PM
OK here is a trick that I find out myself,
if you want nice edge all around your shealth,
you can do like peolple said here everything is alright,
but to get it perfectly.( If my memory is all right, because
I not
doing kydex anaymore , maybe sometimes.)
You BUFF the edge on a COTTON wheel, without anay rouge, and not to much pressure, you will see.
Centerfinger
10-10-2008, 01:09 PM
Great, thanks guys. I almost have my super duper survival piggy back set up done. I do have one more piece to make and then some final fine tunning, but it is my best work so far. I should have pics up this weekend.
leatherman
10-10-2008, 01:10 PM
Very nice! I look forward to it! :chuck:
mbhanzo
10-17-2008, 01:18 PM
I use a victorinox awl to round the edges and chafer all edges prior to wet sanding and I find the results speak for themselves.. I like smooth clean edges that look seamless on my sheaths.. I could save lots of time if I wernt so picky. Finishing the edges is nearly one of the most involved steps in making a nice sheath...
plateshooter
10-18-2008, 04:55 PM
I like to use the sanding sponges available at Lowe's etc. Some have beveled edges and they come in different grits. They seem to cut down on some of the dust and particles that get into your work. I finish with fine scotch brite. For a reamer of punched and drilled holes, I use a case mouth deburring tool that is used in cartridge reloading. Seems to have the perfect angle for cleaning up the edges of your holes before inserting rivets or chicago screws.
Mr.LaBella
10-18-2008, 06:05 PM
I like to use the sanding sponges available at Lowe's etc. Some have beveled edges and they come in different grits. They seem to cut down on some of the dust and particles that get into your work. I finish with fine scotch brite. For a reamer of punched and drilled holes, I use a case mouth deburring tool that is used in cartridge reloading. Seems to have the perfect angle for cleaning up the edges of your holes before inserting rivets or chicago screws.
:welcome: to THE forums, glad to meet you! Keep the other Devils up to snuff on the latest info out there. :cheers:
plateshooter
10-19-2008, 08:12 PM
Thanks for the welcome. Bending Kydex is my addiction. I'm glad to help whenever I can, and very much appreciate the experiences of others.
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