Sharpshooter
07-03-2006, 02:39 PM
When Mike sent me a TUSK to evaluate and test, I recalled seeing the early prototypes in the shop and had the same question; why would I want this knife?
The blade shape is very different from what we are accustomed to seeing; it’s a Wharncliffe or is it a Sheepfoot? Let’s handle that first. The Wharncliffe is defined as: A blade with a straight edge and an almost needle like point while the Sheepfoot: Has a straight edge with the back of the blade falling in a strong curve to the point of the blade.
After testing I would place an emphasis on the STRONG part of the definition, this is definitely a sturdy Sheepfoot.
http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/tfirst.sized.jpg (http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/tfirst.jpg)
Click for full sized image.
The next question coming to mind is; what for? It’s certainly in the size range to be considered an EDC but testing an EDC isn’t much of a measure of a knife. After all ANY good knife can cut tape, slice cardboard and cut some food items into bite size bits. The TUSK is certainly good for that, with the added benefit of not looking menacing to the non-knife folks within eyeshot of you when using it.
That’s not enough for me, if this knife is to replace a sleek and sexy knife with sinuous curves and a handsome profile, it’s gotta do something more than just cut open packages. There is also an attraction to something that is going to do the job when the going gets tough, it’s about character. SO; does the TUSK have character?
First thing I did was to use it to cut Kydex to make up a sheath for this knife. The sheath provided is a very nice example of what a sheath should be a good thick welt, sufficient thickness to the leather to hold its shape and positively retain the knife. The stitching is clean and evenly spaced, in short what I expect to come out of JRE, leather done right.
Still, I prefer sheaths to ride high on my belt with the handle above the top of my belt, so I made a SharpShooter Sheath Systems sheath with a clipover connector so I can put on and take off the knife as I need it. Some folks prefer Kydex while others like leather, just like vanilla, chocolate or strawberry; for me it’s Neapolitan. Depending on the purpose both have a place and purpose.
The tip of the TUSK did a fine job of cutting thru the Kydex effortlessly, just fine enough to follow lines while strong enough to hold the edge.
Next I took the TUSK out into the woods for further testing. The dead straight edge should be perfect for precise whittling and notching.
Precise notches are vital in Bushcrafting, especially when you are trying to build something from available materials. One of my favorites is the figure 4 trigger, perhaps because of the precision needed in construction, perhaps too because of the mechanical nature of the project.
http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t4.sized.jpg (http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t4.jpg)
Click for full sized image.
I started with a 1“ diameter stick for the support, this part needs a wedge shaped top and a trigger notch in the middle. Getting these cuts perfectly square makes the trap work well. Cutting the support to length was accomplished by rolling the edge around the stick at the desired length and paring away from the waste side. The TUSK did this spectacularly, more effortlessly than any knife I’ve used previously.
http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t1.sized.jpg (http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t1.jpg)
Click for full sized image.
http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t2.sized.jpg (http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t2.jpg)
Click for full sized image.
The straight edge does a great job of making straight, flat cuts so the rest of the notches and sears went quick and easy as well.
http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t3.sized.jpg (http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t3.jpg)
Click for full sized image.
Next I wanted to find out just how tough the TUSK is. Assuming the figure 4 works, I’ll have something needing to be cooked, so on to Firebuilding. It was drizzling all day so I would need to find something dry to start the fire.
A bit of the infamous “point first” batoning seemed to be a good test. I found a standing dead Hickory Tree nearby which provided the test media. Hickory is very strong wood, hard and stringy making for a real test of a knife’s toughness.
The only limiting factor to the TUSK in this task is the 3” blade length making a 2” diameter branch about as much as the knife can handle. The blade is quite thick, measuring .156” but it went thru with a few baton blows. The thickness actually helped split the Hickory as it was wedging the two sides apart as I batoned the knife down thru it.
http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t5.sized.jpg (http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t5.jpg)
Click for full sized image.
What was especially impressive was how the TUSK worked its way thru a knot. This isn’t the way to treat a knife, bordering on abuse since knots WILL generally roll the strongest edge, but I’m testing and I’m a “Trained Professional Woodsbum on a closed course…”
http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t6.sized.jpg (http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t6.jpg)
Click for full sized image.
After all this hard use, it’s time for some fuzzys, again hickory. Convex to sharp on a thick blade makes for an incredible edge that is exceptionally strong and scary sharp.
http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t7.sized.jpg (http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t7.jpg)
Click for full sized image.
The edge wouldn’t shave hair when I was done, but about 2 minutes on the stropping board and it’s back to a being razor.
I started out not particularly enamored with the TUSK, it’s not pretty or sexy, but after working with it a bit I’ve come to like it a lot. Partly because it works, but possibly also because I can relate to the not sexy or pretty part… Hmmmmm, I guess it is about CHARACTER.
The blade shape is very different from what we are accustomed to seeing; it’s a Wharncliffe or is it a Sheepfoot? Let’s handle that first. The Wharncliffe is defined as: A blade with a straight edge and an almost needle like point while the Sheepfoot: Has a straight edge with the back of the blade falling in a strong curve to the point of the blade.
After testing I would place an emphasis on the STRONG part of the definition, this is definitely a sturdy Sheepfoot.
http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/tfirst.sized.jpg (http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/tfirst.jpg)
Click for full sized image.
The next question coming to mind is; what for? It’s certainly in the size range to be considered an EDC but testing an EDC isn’t much of a measure of a knife. After all ANY good knife can cut tape, slice cardboard and cut some food items into bite size bits. The TUSK is certainly good for that, with the added benefit of not looking menacing to the non-knife folks within eyeshot of you when using it.
That’s not enough for me, if this knife is to replace a sleek and sexy knife with sinuous curves and a handsome profile, it’s gotta do something more than just cut open packages. There is also an attraction to something that is going to do the job when the going gets tough, it’s about character. SO; does the TUSK have character?
First thing I did was to use it to cut Kydex to make up a sheath for this knife. The sheath provided is a very nice example of what a sheath should be a good thick welt, sufficient thickness to the leather to hold its shape and positively retain the knife. The stitching is clean and evenly spaced, in short what I expect to come out of JRE, leather done right.
Still, I prefer sheaths to ride high on my belt with the handle above the top of my belt, so I made a SharpShooter Sheath Systems sheath with a clipover connector so I can put on and take off the knife as I need it. Some folks prefer Kydex while others like leather, just like vanilla, chocolate or strawberry; for me it’s Neapolitan. Depending on the purpose both have a place and purpose.
The tip of the TUSK did a fine job of cutting thru the Kydex effortlessly, just fine enough to follow lines while strong enough to hold the edge.
Next I took the TUSK out into the woods for further testing. The dead straight edge should be perfect for precise whittling and notching.
Precise notches are vital in Bushcrafting, especially when you are trying to build something from available materials. One of my favorites is the figure 4 trigger, perhaps because of the precision needed in construction, perhaps too because of the mechanical nature of the project.
http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t4.sized.jpg (http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t4.jpg)
Click for full sized image.
I started with a 1“ diameter stick for the support, this part needs a wedge shaped top and a trigger notch in the middle. Getting these cuts perfectly square makes the trap work well. Cutting the support to length was accomplished by rolling the edge around the stick at the desired length and paring away from the waste side. The TUSK did this spectacularly, more effortlessly than any knife I’ve used previously.
http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t1.sized.jpg (http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t1.jpg)
Click for full sized image.
http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t2.sized.jpg (http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t2.jpg)
Click for full sized image.
The straight edge does a great job of making straight, flat cuts so the rest of the notches and sears went quick and easy as well.
http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t3.sized.jpg (http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t3.jpg)
Click for full sized image.
Next I wanted to find out just how tough the TUSK is. Assuming the figure 4 works, I’ll have something needing to be cooked, so on to Firebuilding. It was drizzling all day so I would need to find something dry to start the fire.
A bit of the infamous “point first” batoning seemed to be a good test. I found a standing dead Hickory Tree nearby which provided the test media. Hickory is very strong wood, hard and stringy making for a real test of a knife’s toughness.
The only limiting factor to the TUSK in this task is the 3” blade length making a 2” diameter branch about as much as the knife can handle. The blade is quite thick, measuring .156” but it went thru with a few baton blows. The thickness actually helped split the Hickory as it was wedging the two sides apart as I batoned the knife down thru it.
http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t5.sized.jpg (http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t5.jpg)
Click for full sized image.
What was especially impressive was how the TUSK worked its way thru a knot. This isn’t the way to treat a knife, bordering on abuse since knots WILL generally roll the strongest edge, but I’m testing and I’m a “Trained Professional Woodsbum on a closed course…”
http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t6.sized.jpg (http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t6.jpg)
Click for full sized image.
After all this hard use, it’s time for some fuzzys, again hickory. Convex to sharp on a thick blade makes for an incredible edge that is exceptionally strong and scary sharp.
http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t7.sized.jpg (http://barkriverknives.com/albums/Sharpshooter/t7.jpg)
Click for full sized image.
The edge wouldn’t shave hair when I was done, but about 2 minutes on the stropping board and it’s back to a being razor.
I started out not particularly enamored with the TUSK, it’s not pretty or sexy, but after working with it a bit I’ve come to like it a lot. Partly because it works, but possibly also because I can relate to the not sexy or pretty part… Hmmmmm, I guess it is about CHARACTER.